"New Standard Build" Day 1 problems

[o3h1p]

Here are some of the problems I ran into using mostly Daniels instructions but also:

Clemd973 supplement
http://www.diybookscanner.org/forum/vie ... ?f=1&t=698

and Drake Ravensmith pdf:

http://diybookscanner.org/New_Standard_ ... ional2.pdf

Here are the problems I ran into in order of annoyance:

1) IMPROPER CENTERING OF CRADLE: The inner base is about 19 inches long. So for the cradle to start out centered it needs to be 8.5 inches across. The wedges have 4 in sides, if you slide the cradle over you get 2.5 inches (I get 2.5 inches of play when moving the cradle back and forth) and you can gain maybe an inch if you mount it flush with the right side. So we have 4+2.5+1 = 7.5 inches. I'm about 1 inch off from the cradle starting out in a centered position. I'm assuming I'll have to switch to 5 in wedges, but let me know if I did something wrong.

2) MOUNTING THE COLUMNS REQUIRES BOLTS THAT ARE AT LEAST 3.5 INCHES LONG: As far as I can tell, for the column you need at least 5 4in bolts to mount the two column pieces together yet the parts list calls for only 2:

http://diybookscanner.org/forum/downloa ... php?id=971

3)THE POSITIONING OF HOW TO MOUNT THE CRADLE INTO THE BASE ISNT CLEAR: The instructions claim not to center the desk drawer slides, and I think it said to make it as flush as possible. You can see in this picture that they are flush against the left side and the right side has the plastic ends
http://diybookscanner.org/New_Standard_ ... G_0797.JPG
But in this image it seems that the base is flush with the plastic cover side and it is not flush on the left side:
http://diybookscanner.org/New_Standard_ ... G_0857.JPG

4) OH BOY DOES THE MDF SPLIT WHEN YOU DRILL IT ON THE END: The triangles are very difficult without predrilling, this is manageable after you get the hang of it, but using a drill to screw in the 3x8 block basically strips the hole and makes the screw pointless. I think I'm going to have to use some wood glue to make things solid.

5) THE PARTS LIST (AND THE FIRST SET OF INSTRUCTIONS) CALLS FOR GLASS NOT PLEXIGLASS OR EPOXY FOR THE GLASS: I bought glass, but can't mount it. Do they make epoxy that mounts glass to wood?

6) IS IT 15 OR 15.25in? Is it 11 or 11.25? The measurement for the cradle sides isn't clear, it say 15 in the intro:
http://diybookscanner.org/forum/viewtop ... 3221#p3218
But this picture says 15.25:
http://diybookscanner.org/New_Standard_ ... G_0816.JPG

I'm happy to update the wiki to clear up these things, but it would be really nice if we could collapse the images and maybe the detailed descriptions. Is there anyway we could get this extension installed:

http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Co ... e_elements

(Though I'm not completely certain this works for images.)

jack

[the.traveller]

I am still in the proces of reading Drake's build and will start next week building the base and the cradle so I can not answer your questions yet. I hope the original builders can and will.

My first thought coming up when I see your questions on the column is, do you have a different thickness then is described in the materials list? Did you sink in the bolds? The head of the bold is also a few milimeters, maybe that causes the lack of length.

I'm happy to update the wiki to clear up these things, but it would be really nice if we could collapse the images and maybe the detailed descriptions. Is there anyway we could get this extension installed:

http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Co ... e_elements

(Though I'm not completely certain this works for images.)

We are always inviting people to help with the wiki. So please do.

Just register yourself with your forum member name and start adding.

For your suggestion of making it possible to have text be collapsable is a good one. Especially with the large manual from Drake. However since MediaWiki version 1.16.0 has been installed a lot of programming should be done to enable collapsable chapters. And time is precious so this probably will not happen in the near future.

(A complete re-installment of the latest mediawiki version would be preferred because of the many new enhancements we could profit from.)

That is the reason that I choose to make subpages for the respective parts of Drake's build. (When I write this, it is still under construction)

As for images look at the explanation on Mediawiki.

http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Imag ... playing_it

Although I have not seen an explanation for an image to collapse, I vaguely remember that it is possible to hide pictures and by clicking on them make them visible on the same page.

Using the word "Media" instead of "File" will hide the image but the image opens up on a new page. Because of that you have to click the back page button in your browser to go back to the text. Not nice.

I hope you will make pictures of the difficulties you encounter because a picture says more than a thousand words.
And hopefully upload them for others to see.

Thank you in advance

Traveller

[o3h1p]

Hey Traveller,

If you can't install 1.17, do you think you can install this extension:

http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:CollapsableText

?

I think we should do like you say and just create very small images of the steps so that when a user clicks on the picture it is shown in full. Then make a simple one line step with collapsible text with complete description. This will allow someone to get the 100-mile up overview and still see the details when needed. Currently it's really annoying to scroll through hundreds of high-res photos to find what you're looking for.

I'm not sure how this would dovetail with Dan's plan to get together another pdf to put up on instructibles, but aside from needing a computer nearby to view the wiki (yea tablets and velcro!), I think the technical advantages of the wiki outweigh those of a pdf.

jack

[Drake Ravensmith]

Hi!

I'm sorry you're having problems. I hope I can be of help.

1. You must be using Daniel's board lengths of 22" here. Both Clemnd and I ran into the problem you're having. I suggest replacing those boards with 24" boards. If you'd rather not, I also list a few fixes on pages 48 and 49 of my pdf.

2. The parts lists you're referring to is a work in progress. Daniel's been very busy with his job and he hasn't had a chance to complete it yet. I suggest that you take your instructions and try to figure out how many bolts, washers, nuts, and so on you're going to use before you go shopping. Also, buy extra. All that stuff is fairly cheap.

3. In the first photo, the left side of the scanner is the side clamped to the table. The slides are attached as far to the left side of the base as possible but the cradle is flush with the right side of the slides. In the second photo, the slides have merely been extended as far right as they can go which shows you that the cradle is attached as far right as possible. Please see my photos on page 47 and 48.

4. I couldn't use MDF because the only sheets available locally were 8'x4'. You could try and buy a small sheet of plywood (say 2'x2') and use it for the book holder supports. As far as the clamping block, so long as you're certain you won't be moving it, glue it in. Otherwise you could use small bolts.

5. I hear gorilla glue works. You can ask Woeka for tips on that. http://www.diybookscanner.org/forum/vie ... 1109#p1109

When I built mine, several users suggested not gluing it for a variety of reasons. You can see what I did starting on page 80.

6. Again, the thread is a work in progress. I believe Daniel instructs you to always use the text, not what's in the pic. I can tell you that the cradle base has to be 11.25" wide or it won't connect with your keyboard slides. The slides themselves are 16" across so the base should be a little less than that or about 15". The book holders on the other hand just have to match up with your platen. If you platen pieces are 11"x15" Then your book holders should be about that big.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

[o3h1p]

Thanks for the help Drake. My Day 2 problems weren't as bad as Day 1 (column base bots running into sliders and realizing that i should predrill with a smaller bit to keep the screws tight).


I still think the pictures are wrong in #3: I agree that it is meant to be flush with the right, but you can see in the first photo that it is not exactly flush on the right side. The rubber stoppers (at the top) overhang a bit and the left side (bottom) actually don't butt up against the left base 2x4. In the second picture the right side (with the plastic/rubber end) is definitely flush, the left side does not meet up flush with the slider end, and you can even see the extra holes that were used as dan moved the base further to the right.

hopefully day 3 will go a bit better (pretty much only the platen and mouting platen left)
jack

[Drake Ravensmith]

Another thing you have to keep in mind is that sometimes a picture will be taken at a angle that will make things look slightly out of place. After I fixed my cradle/base problem I snapped a quick pic to show that the cradle was now centered. In the pic it would appear that the cradle is still slightly off despite the fact that it is spot on.

[daniel_reetz]

I'll try to respond in full later (I'm on a road trip with family now), but I just want to apologize for the incompleteness and errors in the tutorial. I am working on ways to make that better. For wiki stuff, please contact Rob in the short term, or me in the long term (I'll install most anything that will help people update the thing).

[copy paper]

I just finished a build. I used slow drying epoxy to glue the wood to the glass. You do need longer bolts, 3.5 inch. I didn't have any issues on sizing or centering, remember that the cradle closes and the whole mechanism slides left and right, so there is no one center as there are many different sizes of books (unless I am not understanding your question). And yeah, the shopping excel inventory is inaccurate, you should go through the whole process first and make a list for yourself, it helps a lot in the building process anyway.

[copy paper]

Oh, and some tips for the epoxying:

• -Use a drop cloth you can get rid of. Mine got glued to the wood sides of the platen and I had to pull it off.

• -tape up your glass or you will be sorry

• -have scrap wood and weights ready to prop everything into place, or massive clamps. It's hard to glue it in a way that keeps it all together but that doesn't leave you with your clamps or wood glued to the platen. That's why I used slow drying, so I had plenty of time to figure out how I was going to prop it all up.

• -you might want to figure out some way to protect the glass edges. I currently have a strip of electrical tape, but that's not exactly ideal. You don't want it chipping.

I picked glass because of dust and scratching. It feels very solid in the end and I'm glad I did. As others have mentioned, use doublestrength.