Scanner plans and Australian parts/price list

[dr1]

Hi all,

I've tried to design a scanner in Sketchup. It's most directly inspired by qbit's build, but also features the teflon furniture slide idea that I swear was mentioned on this forum but I now can't find.

Thanks to Daniel's amending the filetype whitelist, I've been able to upload the .SKP file.

BookScanner.skp

(213.39 KiB) Downloaded 558 times

Pictures





I know even less about woodworking than I know about CAD, so there's probably at least one fatal weakness that you can spot. Feedback appreciated.

Note that the design does not (yet) include the camera mounts, or a method for securing the cradle between adjustments. I also don't know what size of hinge I'll be using, only that the one I bought won't work



The design is to scale and I've updated the model to include the bits of whole MDF and wood which are available from Bunnings (our Home Despot equivalent), along with the cuts required.

The measurements are probably a bit odd because I bought the platen parts before I made the plans, and am scaling it all around that.

Parts and prices

From Bunnings

1 3.6m x 90mm x 45mm plank of Structural Pine - $11.36
1 900mm x 450mm x 16mm board of MDF - $9.50
1 900mm x 600mm x 9mm board of MDF - $9.25
1 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm x 1m length of aluminium channel - $10.85
3 4-packs of Slide Glide furniture slides - 3 x $7.99
1 150W halogen work light - $9.90
1 100mm black metal handle - $3.74

Does not include camera mount, hinge or bolts/screws.

From http://www.plasticcreations.com.au

2 20cm x 20 cm x 6mm sheets of clear acrylic
2 35cm x 25 cm x 3mm sheets of non-reflective acrylic - $40 for all 4 sheets cut to size.
1 tube of Weld-on 16 acrylic adhesive - $10

From Officeworks

1 2-pack of Sandisk 4GB SD cards - $21.92

From http://www.ryda.com.au

2 Canon Powershot A480s - 2 x $79.85 + $16.30 shipping

Does not include AC adapter for cameras.

Total cost so far: $322.75

To Do

I'm planning to grab the wood and the hinge during the week and start building next weekend. Will post photos as and when.

Thanks,

D

[p2m]

Hello,

The camera mount should not necessarily be centered, as are the lens and the tripod socket on most cameras can not be centrally

greeting
Andreas

[dr1]

Thanks for the feedback.

The bits that attach to the cameras are not in the design for the moment. They would attach to the aluminium channel and, in the first instance, will probably be just angle brackets, as in the New Standard Scanner.

I'm still thinking about how to make sure the two halves of the cradle stay in the right place, both relative to the platen and relative to each other, while still giving them maximum flexibility for different book sizes.

[daniel_reetz]

I'll fix the SKP issue now. Basically we have a whitelist of filetypes - there is nothing against sketchup files, they just aren't in the list yet.

EDIT: Please try again with the SKP when you have a chance, it should be allowed now.

[daniel_reetz]

The main concern I have is your platen hinge. In my first design, as posted on instructables, the platen must be adjusted up or down for each book. We now have a range of designs that, while they are not as simple to assemble, eliminate that need. Basically, check out some of the platen lift ideas from Rob or Spamsickle, or the slide-type approach on the New Standard Scanner.

[snaguy]

Here are a few tips that may help.

http://www.msy.com.au/
SDHC 4G SanDisk $7 each

ebay.com.au

10 x ball bearing drawer runners kitchen vanity 300mm
$55 buy it now.Or best offer. I made an offer of $45 and they accepted plus $19 delivery. Try an offer of $40
paradise216435

CCTV Camera 270 Rotation Round Base Metal Mount Stand
$6.33 Free Delivery
uxcell

And you might want to look at 12v led lights which can also be powered by the computer power supply.

2 x Car Head Light Headlight White LED Lamps Bulbs 12V
$7.99 Free postage
innouk2008

Power with computer power supply.
The only place I could find the AC adapters was on ebay in the US and postage was not cheap and the would not combine postage or respond to any messages.
You can get the plug for the power at Jaycar. I will try find the receipt and post details.
http://diybookscanner.org/forum/viewtop ... f=1&t=1101

What state are you in?

[anvit2a]

Power with computer power supply.
The only place I could find the AC adapters was on ebay in the US and postage was not cheap and the would not combine postage or respond to any messages.
You can get the plug for the power at Jaycar. I will try find the receipt and post details.
http://diybookscanner.org/forum/viewtop ... f=1&t=1101

I'm right now playing around with building my scanners electronically parts around an pc power supply like that... just not sure if mine got enought power to supply my with 15volt or more to give me the nearly 12V i need for my Cree neutral white LEDs. So i also got an old "broken" laptop power supply that i have allready tested working...

I have allready build a circuit that lets me controll and supply cameras with power. (I use Canon PowerShot A495 and DC in jack) It seems to work even better off the DC than of batteries. I will be looking into triggering which i will solder my cicuit for one of the following days ... allready got the camera trigger through usb with 3x 1,5V AA batteries so should be no problem getter then to work...
I also want to make a power for two small 4.3" LCD screens which are 12V too.

I have done some work on a circuit that will let me controll 3x Cree neutral white LEDs. I want to be able to controll the brightness and be able to dim. So far i allready got a kind of working circuit where i can controll the brightness very nicely. I will have to look a bit more into it since i have a small problem where when i get to a certain point the leds dims down and flash. think that might have something to do with a capicator or maybe even the max current controller i have built in... I will also try look into that one of the following days and will try let you guys know how it is going on. Everything is build of "low price" compontent and i'm making my own buckpuck for crees

[dr1]

Thanks for the info. I've already bought the halogen work light but I'll look at LEDs if it gets too hot or is otherwise unsuitable. I'll also look at drawer runners if adjusting the platen for each book gets too annoying. That camera mount looks pretty cool...

I'm in Canberra. When did MSY get a branch here?!!

Regarding power, I wasn't prepared to pay $120 each for the official Canon part. I found this alleged substitute on Ebay for USD 8.99 with free shipping. I've ordered one and will let you know if it works. The vendor seems to sell the same item under slightly different part names for slightly different prices ($9.99 and $12.99); this seems to be the cheapest. I plan to let people who know more about electricity test it before plugging it into my cameras.

[Eppi]

Hi,
Nice job on the Sketchup plan. I can vouch for the "New Standard Scanner" build as I finished it less than a week ago and it scans like a m#$%@r f^%&#r (i.e. very well indeed)!

Here's a couple of tips off the top of my head...
Platen construction
- The acrylic I used was not non-glare, as my local Bunnings only had the one type in stock and I was too impatient to go and hunt for another supplier. This was not a good move. I get bad reflections off each side of the platen. I will definitely need to replace with non-glare product at some stage.

- I found these shelf slides http://www.drawerslide.com.au/Page/keyb ... elf-runner which seem almost identical to those used in the New Standard Build. Cost $40 per set (2 sets required for the build). Free postage. Ordered Mon morning, received them Friday morning. They have a very smooth action.

- I also used Clemd973's modification for attaching the platen to the column. Works well.
- A gate bolt (75mm barrel type) from Bunnings ($7.00) attached to the column does a good job at holding up the platen when needed.

Cameras
- I picked up two Canon A495 from Harvey Norman ($80 each). Very happy with their output & interface.
- I have the cameras mounted on angle brackets. I used a bench grinder to modify the end of the bracket that holds the camera. By grinding the end back so that the hole for the camera screw is 4-5mm from the end, I can open & close the battery/media card compartment without having to remove the camera from the bracket.

Power supply & trigger
- I used an old PC PSU as suggested by snaguy (many thanks snaguy ) which powers both cameras & trigger. I'm using Par38 flood lights so they have to go directly to mains.
- You seem to have your power sorted anyway. However I would like to add that instead of the usual trigger I have used a micro-switch along the +5v rail for the USB. I have attached the switch to the back of the cradle so that it fires as the platen hits the bottom of its movement. All I have to worry about is lifting the platen and turning the pages

Cheers,
Eppi

[qbit]

Great Job!

(Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.)

Here is some comments regarding the questions you had, others had, and some other things that came to mind.

file.jpg (60.92 KiB) Viewed 18299 times

1) Horizontal movement of the book scanner is allowed as that certain larger books may require some offsetting. (1) gives an idea of the distance allowed (it would be the same on the other side)

2) If I really wanted, I could slide a long threaded bolt from the base of the stand to the base of the book scanner to keep it perfectly centered, but I found that it wasn't really needed

3) the base rests on the stand, providing stabilization, but also allows for some movement (see (1))

4) The book is actually not centered to the black book plate. The reason is that as the hing is used, the corner of the pexi closest to the stand can catch into the book. By moving the book further away from the stand AND by cutting out the corner of the pexi (see (8)), it allows for the pexi to be moved up and down off of the book without the pexi's corner hitting the book. As well, there is a vertical height adjustment (see (6)) for the pexi and hinge to allow for different heights of books. I found that most books you set the height at the start and you are good to complete the book while thicker books may require an adjustment or two. Also having a front contact on the pexi (see (9)) to press down upon helps to flatten the pexi against the book

5) As someone commented, the center aluminum supports cannot be completely centered, but need to be offset according to your camera's optical placement

6) see (4)

7) make sure the lighting is extended far enough to be properly centered over the center of the book

8) see (4)

9) see (4)


Hopes this helps.
I'm shortly back to university so I may not respond immediately.

All the best