My handle design for jradi
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- daniel_reetz
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Re: My handle design for jradi
I got the switch and battery box from Radioshack, and the USB port board from the front of a trashed computer.
For everyone else's reference, John and I located other sources of cheeeeeeap USB ports.
"USB Brackets" have two ports and nice headers... for $3!
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=usb+bracket
If anyone else is less-than-happy making their own electronics/handle, I just ordered the parts to make ten kits like this one. I'll have them complete by the end of the month. They'll be cheap and reliable.
Editing this to say: I still think a Mouser list is a great idea, and really appreciate the effort, James. I just figured some turnkey solutions would be worthwhile, too.
For everyone else's reference, John and I located other sources of cheeeeeeap USB ports.
"USB Brackets" have two ports and nice headers... for $3!
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=usb+bracket
If anyone else is less-than-happy making their own electronics/handle, I just ordered the parts to make ten kits like this one. I'll have them complete by the end of the month. They'll be cheap and reliable.
Editing this to say: I still think a Mouser list is a great idea, and really appreciate the effort, James. I just figured some turnkey solutions would be worthwhile, too.
- rob
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Re: My handle design for jradi
I was thinking that maybe there could be a solderless kit? I was practically born with a soldering iron in my hand, but other people may not be as lucky... are there USB connectors and phono jacks that don't require solder? Like maybe pigtailed connectors that can be connected with wire nuts?
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
- daniel_reetz
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Re: My handle design for jradi
James seemed to be suggesting that he could find parts that would all clip together. I think it could probably happen even using off-the-shelf stuff if you looked hard enough. One dead-simple way to do it would be to cut the positive wire on a wall-wart transformer which powers a USB hub. Then if we could find a screw-terminal momentary switch, it could just be screwed into the gap in the wire.
I plan to make these "kits" totally soldered and working, so that will cover at least ten people who just want to get going... this handle thing does require a bit more mulling around.
I plan to make these "kits" totally soldered and working, so that will cover at least ten people who just want to get going... this handle thing does require a bit more mulling around.
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Re: My handle design for jradi
I may as well get my name in the queue for one of your kits. My hacker friends keep telling me I need to learn to solder, but I'm more of a software guy than a hardware guy, and the sum total of my electronics education consists of playing with one of those Radio Shack "spring clip" 100-project kits. I did once want to play with stepper motors and motion control, but at this point that's pretty far down in the stack.
Re: My handle design for jradi
I have identified almost every part need for a "snap together" solution. I am just looking for one more part and then everyone should be able to get themselves rolling.
Dan, if you get to many requests, let me know. I can churn out a few dozen boards in an afternoon, if need be. I have an Eagle file I cooked up but I am not sure if anyone is interested in that level of complexity.
Cheers,
James
Dan, if you get to many requests, let me know. I can churn out a few dozen boards in an afternoon, if need be. I have an Eagle file I cooked up but I am not sure if anyone is interested in that level of complexity.
Cheers,
James
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Re: My handle design for jradi
One of those cheeeeeeeeap USB ports just fell apart on me, so I'm back to triggering the cameras with two hands.daniel_reetz wrote: For everyone else's reference, John and I located other sources of cheeeeeeap USB ports.
I think I'll try to get a plug-in solution if I build a 2-camera USB control myself. I'm plugging in my lights and my cameras, and it was a minor annoyance to have the batteries die in the common-button device in the middle of shooting a book.
If I actually attempt it, this will be the first time I ever soldered anything, so if anyone has design suggestions for 120V AC -> 5V DC -> dual USB connections (and a red button in there somewhere...), I'll be much obliged.
- daniel_reetz
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Re: My handle design for jradi
I'm sorry to hear that, but I warranty my work. I can send you a replacement connector, or, if you want me to take care of it for you, just mail it back to me (note that I have a new mailing address that I can PM to you).One of those cheeeeeeeeap USB ports just fell apart on me, so I'm back to triggering the cameras with two hands.
You can power it from AC, no problem. Step one is to find a 5v cell phone charger. If you choose to go that way, I'll make up plans and post them here.
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Re: My handle design for jradi
I'll be happy to mail it back, and you can re-use whatever parts are reusable. If I include a 5V AC->DC converter, what will it cost me to get the replacement wired to use it?daniel_reetz wrote:I can send you a replacement connector, or, if you want me to take care of it for you, just mail it back to me (note that I have a new mailing address that I can PM to you).
You can power it from AC, no problem. Step one is to find a 5v cell phone charger. If you choose to go that way, I'll make up plans and post them here.
And, just to be clear, it wasn't your work that was the problem here. One of the USB connectors on that Y-shaped piece just came apart. I'd had a very intermittent problem with one of the cameras not firing, and two nights ago it became a solid problem. The current-carrying piece slid out of its case, and only one wire is still connected.
- daniel_reetz
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Re: My handle design for jradi
Tell you what, you pay shipping both ways, include the adapter, and I'll use the opportunity to make a writeup for everyone here. That's worth a lot to me, since frankly, I have little motivation to do it otherwise.
When looking for an adapter, you want to find a digital "switcher" like this:
http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/313145/27 ... S_Spec.jpg
They are typically very small and light and are standard on a lot of newer stuff.
But you don't want a linear power supply, like this:
http://azsurplus.com/images/ma-1020-1.jpg
Because it can have higher than 5V at the output when unloaded (which is all the time with loads like the Powershots). The easiest way to tell the difference is that the linear supplies are really heavy because of the big transformer in them.
In fact, if you can find a charger rated between 3.7 and 4.5 volts, rather than 5, that should give you a little safety margin. 5 will work, though.
When looking for an adapter, you want to find a digital "switcher" like this:
http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/313145/27 ... S_Spec.jpg
They are typically very small and light and are standard on a lot of newer stuff.
But you don't want a linear power supply, like this:
http://azsurplus.com/images/ma-1020-1.jpg
Because it can have higher than 5V at the output when unloaded (which is all the time with loads like the Powershots). The easiest way to tell the difference is that the linear supplies are really heavy because of the big transformer in them.
In fact, if you can find a charger rated between 3.7 and 4.5 volts, rather than 5, that should give you a little safety margin. 5 will work, though.
Re: My handle design for jradi
Hi, I don't know where to post this but reading people's post really urge me to want to help people build their own switch and help get people going. I notice many don't like soldering so I've built a remote switch without soldering. I've read that Daniel may have his stereodata remote tutorial up soon so this one is somewhat different and will compliment his. It has worked flawlessly on my A560 canon. Using simple tools such as a pliers and scissors. And parts you can find in your local mom and pops stores. I will try to show you how to build one for yourself in as little text as much as possible but you can go read the of the full image tutorial here.
All you need are the parts and tools above.
step 1 Cut away two usb plugs and one mini plug.
Step 2. Splice the wires and connect all negative leads together.
Step 3. Splice the wires and connect two positive leads which goes to the camera together. Connect this wire to one end of the switch/button terminal using a wire twist method.
Step 4. Connect the last single positive lead to the other switch/button terminal using a wire twist method.
Step 5. Seal and secure the wires with heat glue or any strong glue you have around.
Step 6. Test the the switch by connecting it to your PC and the camera. The camera should take a picture after releasing the button.
It will also plug into a switching power supply.
Good luck fellow scanners, any question comments I'll be glad to answer them.
All you need are the parts and tools above.
step 1 Cut away two usb plugs and one mini plug.
Step 2. Splice the wires and connect all negative leads together.
Step 3. Splice the wires and connect two positive leads which goes to the camera together. Connect this wire to one end of the switch/button terminal using a wire twist method.
Step 4. Connect the last single positive lead to the other switch/button terminal using a wire twist method.
Step 5. Seal and secure the wires with heat glue or any strong glue you have around.
Step 6. Test the the switch by connecting it to your PC and the camera. The camera should take a picture after releasing the button.
It will also plug into a switching power supply.
Good luck fellow scanners, any question comments I'll be glad to answer them.