the building of my book scanner

Built a scanner? Started to build a scanner? Record your progress here. Doesn't need to be a whole scanner - triggers and other parts are fine. Commercial scanners are fine too.

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xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

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plate is made out of glass. it works but i think i may replace the whole thing with the original suggested design. i made this because i don't have the plastic stuff lying around. i first i used a normal door hinge but then i found this better one. works better for different book heights having two hinges. you could make the same thing if you had two door hinges with a block of wood tying them together.


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i used an my old skateboard to make the carriage move back and forth and set my carriage at an angle. the carriage is removed here so you can see what it is riding on.


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here is carriage in place you can see i used a door handle for the plate's handle. the side pieces are from my last project where i made a raft. it is the scrap wood of the space the 55 gallon drum sits to float the raft.

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the light sockets came from a thrift store. i bought them years ago. most of my wood comes from parader flouts. some of it was parts of a bunk bed. still need to buy cameras and lights. i think it would be better to use a DC appliance power little black box. is there a reason why that is not in the schematics instead of batteries to power the switch?
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daniel_reetz
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Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by daniel_reetz »

Very, very cool. Thanks for posting your progress!
i think it would be better to use a DC appliance power little black box. is there a reason why that is not in the schematics instead of batteries to power the switch?
The big reason is that I'm afraid of most small power supplies. Most of them, when not under load, kick out more than 5 volts, which can easily damage the cameras. I used batteries because they are easy and super-safe. If you had a well-regulated 4 or 5v supply, you could definitely go for that.

I think it's very interesting that you chose to set the book cradle at an angle. Why did you choose to do that?
xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

if it was not at an angle it would need at least one more wheel to get the cradle to track. so, with the tipping you use less wheels. this also helps the user get a better view of the book for watching to see if the plate is joining the book's spine correctly. i also thought it would keep the book from wandering up and down when photographed by have a lip for it to plush up against.

the plan is to have the camera arms at the same angle as the cradle. hopefully the lighting will not have to be moved to that angle to get good shots.
xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

daniel_reetz wrote:Very, very cool. Thanks for posting your progress!
i think it would be better to use a DC appliance power little black box. is there a reason why that is not in the schematics instead of batteries to power the switch?
The big reason is that I'm afraid of most small power supplies. Most of them, when not under load, kick out more than 5 volts, which can easily damage the cameras. I used batteries because they are easy and super-safe. If you had a well-regulated 4 or 5v supply, you could definitely go for that.

I think it's very interesting that you chose to set the book cradle at an angle. Why did you choose to do that?

are you saying that the power may spike when the switch is thrown drop of to 5 volts? i could see how that would be a problem. if that is not the case then the you could just check out your old black boxes with your volt meter to see if the manufacture is telling the truth or not.
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daniel_reetz
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Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by daniel_reetz »

Sorry I missed your response here. Yes, with linear power supplies, the load/no load voltages are different. On the CHDK forums, they suggest to never exceed 4.5V on the USB port of the Canons. A 5V power supply could easily float to 6V with no load on it, meaning you'd fry the USB port on the Canon when you plugged it in.

Any progress on your scanner? Your tilted design is really intriguing.
xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

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have not worked on it for at least a week. i just finished building the camera arms. mechanically it seems to work nice and if scanning books every gets old i can remove the book cradle and use by book scanner to ride a half pipe. i need need to pick up some lights and thumb screws.
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daniel_reetz
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Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by daniel_reetz »

i can remove the book cradle and use by book scanner to ride a half pipe.
Badass!

It's lookin' pretty rad. I'm going to post a huge batch of pictures from my new build in a bit here...
xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

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this is taken with 8 megapixel canon a580 with 4 - 13 watt florescent bulbs. 3 bulbs seemed to be enough to make the flash not go off on the camera but i am using 4 anyway. i think the tilt is moving the glare i hear so many complaints about out of the way?

i was unable to get Page Maker to work. it said i needed a file called mclmcrrt70.dll. maybe someone knows what is wrong? i didn't try to find the .dll file because i just used a work around by writing my own system macro scrips using Key Text to build the book.

http://www.keytext.com/index.html?83B-955-F61
xylon
Posts: 27
Joined: 04 Mar 2014, 00:52

Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by xylon »

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small cut piece bicycle inner tube to grip the camera.
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daniel_reetz
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E-book readers owned: Used to have a PRS-500
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Re: the building of my book scanner

Post by daniel_reetz »

Nice work!
i was unable to get Page Maker to work. it said i needed a file called mclmcrrt70.dll.
I think you need to install the Matlab Component Runtime to get that DLL.

As far as your picture, you should put the camera in manual mode, disable the flash, and set the white balance to "flourescent". That should get you a white image.
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