I've got an old transcription foot switch I want to convert into a foot switch for firing the cameras electrically.
The wiring inside has a circuit board, but the mechanical end is just some simple microswitches.
I'll have a battery pack at first, but I'd like to splice in an unused BlackBerry wart to power the assembly. It's 5 volts, but could it be a) enough or b) too much power for both of the cameras? Or will it be fine?
How do I find out how much voltage and how many amps can go to a pair of A2200s?
Foot Switch
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- jtalle
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 25 Jun 2012, 22:57
- E-book readers owned: iBook, Kindle, Nook, Adobe Reader
- Number of books owned: 100
- Country: US
- Location: Livermore, CA
Re: Foot Switch
I'm repurposing a Belkins USB 2 hub and an Olympus RS-26 Transcription Footswitch. It's usb with not very much on the inside. Never did use it for transcription, so I'm happy to finally have a use for it.
Two screws on the back and unsnap the top half from the bottom. Just an itty bitty PC board and some tiny microswitches.
I've unsoldered the four USB sockets and turned them over to keep them away from the traces - and I've insulated them as well. I only need them to distribute the power to the cameras. Still have some testing to do, but it's working.
Anyone who has any cautionary input to offer is encouraged to do so. I'd rather not destroy the cameras and if I'm in error with my assumptions, or feel compelled to tell me I need to make modifications, PLEASE do so.
I've got a couple more footswitches on order - RS-23s - for about $18 including shipping. Also, a New Belkins hub that'll be a bit more presentable.
This is turning out to be VERY easy to do.
I've got some DPST microswitches on order from HK so I can make the left and right switches operate the cameras independently, as well.
Two screws on the back and unsnap the top half from the bottom. Just an itty bitty PC board and some tiny microswitches.
I've unsoldered the four USB sockets and turned them over to keep them away from the traces - and I've insulated them as well. I only need them to distribute the power to the cameras. Still have some testing to do, but it's working.
Anyone who has any cautionary input to offer is encouraged to do so. I'd rather not destroy the cameras and if I'm in error with my assumptions, or feel compelled to tell me I need to make modifications, PLEASE do so.
I've got a couple more footswitches on order - RS-23s - for about $18 including shipping. Also, a New Belkins hub that'll be a bit more presentable.
This is turning out to be VERY easy to do.
I've got some DPST microswitches on order from HK so I can make the left and right switches operate the cameras independently, as well.
- jtalle
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 25 Jun 2012, 22:57
- E-book readers owned: iBook, Kindle, Nook, Adobe Reader
- Number of books owned: 100
- Country: US
- Location: Livermore, CA
Re: Foot Switch
I'm happy to say that I've got everything working great. It triggers like it's supposed to and I'm getting up to speed on the various CHDK functions.
Re: Foot Switch
Hi
I'm planning to build a similar foot switch trigger, using this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-to-5V- ... 541f00c756) as part of my setup. As you can see, it outputs 5v; did you find 5v enough to trigger your cameras?
I'm planning to build a similar foot switch trigger, using this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-to-5V- ... 541f00c756) as part of my setup. As you can see, it outputs 5v; did you find 5v enough to trigger your cameras?