Daniel Reetz, the founder of the DIY Book Scanner community, has recently started making videos of prototyping and shop tips. If you are tinkering with a book scanner (or any other project) in your home shop, these tips will come in handy. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn0gq8 ... g_8K1nfInQ

Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Built a scanner? Started to build a scanner? Record your progress here. Doesn't need to be a whole scanner - triggers and other parts are fine. Commercial scanners are fine too.
GenioDiabolico
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Re: Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Post by GenioDiabolico » 31 Aug 2018, 07:52

dpc was on the money. I got my Siconi mat and then scanned a book. It held MUCH better than my previous mat. By holding it in place reliably it meant that I scanned faster and that the output was more consistent and thus had better results out of Scan Tailor and OCR. Thanks for the suggestion.

One of the things I did was lower the camera so that I could get more book in frame without having to digital zoom. Looking at Mohib's original video I think I went overboard. My camera is now low enough that I need to be careful not to hit it with the platen. I think I am going to raise it a bit and see how that works for the next experiment. The last one was completely acceptable in terms of the final output. Now I'm working on throughput to make this more viable. I'm checking settings on my camera app which I think is reacquiring focus too often (Camera FV on Android) and looking for other ways to get something like the 20 pages/minute dream. I'm closer to 8 right now, which is brutal for long books.

I started writing a blog post detailing my experiences building and using this. I'll post a link when it is up.

Konos93a
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E-book readers owned: kobo aura,kindle 1
Number of books owned: 3000
Country: greece

Re: Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Post by Konos93a » 04 Sep 2018, 19:43

the most difficult part with mohib scanner is that you have to keep the same circumstance in every photo. this is difficult for reasons . but since you read english don't care so much

1 you need more source of lights in different directions and you have only one, and even you have more you need and from your side so you have difussion of the light due the plexi glass that you cant manage. that will have some letters under the plexi-glass more blur.take same pictures with and without plexiglass. is one issue that may change the focus spot of your smartphone and you will need recapture pages.

2 if not using much tape or something that will keep on the book stable it will move some pages and you will need to recapture. i see that you face that with a Siconi mat .if you move a little bit the plexi glass whine camera capture or focus maybe you will get a blurred photo.

3 now a systemic issue in mohib scanner. lets say that you take a glass of mirror and put it between plexi glass and camera. if you see from the screen in the middle the lens of the camera that means you have 90 ankle .like you close one eye and watch you eye in a mirror it means you are perfectly opposite .that change in every capture due to the ankle of the movin blexi glass. so you need to fix that .i used abbyy finereader 12 straighten text line command .that mean 6 more steps in my method or 40 more minutes for a 600 pages book. the trick with the mirror helps me reduce the procession time of the images.

4 take a meter and check every 50 pages the distance .keep the distacne stable move camera .if the move is not vertically you need to focus again in the middle of the page. use scan talior experimental to scale the cropped images them in the same level.

5 you need with the same distance and ankles of light to capture a whole book. that means that if you want same results you cant because you will have to recapture missed or blurred pages with different camera-glass distance.

6 maybe you will have compatibility issues with the bluetooth trigger every 100 pages. i am not sure ,i haven't use it yet but try a selfistick jack .

All the issues i referred is because i read the photo and not ocr because i scan greek books. ocr here is not acceptable to read. so i tried to optimize the quality of the images. a good way to check quality is with abbyfinerear command detect the optimal resolution. more than 300 dpi is the same ocr. more than 500 dpi looks the same in the human eye .take a bunch of photos in any distance to see which one is better. and take 3 photos before you start capture a book to see if you are satisfied with the result.

personally when i scanned a 250 pages book i had to recaptured 30 pages and put their images in the right place in the folders.i also had a headacke because i had 2 lights in front of my eyes for 40 minutes. anyway i remember spend 4 hours in a book that need less than 1 with a 2-camera classic diybookscanner to get digitalized.

cheers and good luck

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Mohib
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Re: Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Post by Mohib » 20 Sep 2018, 00:11

Hi GenioDiabolico,

Sorry for the delay in reply, but for some reason I'm no longer getting notifications from the forums when a thread I'm watching is updated so just happened to take look after realising I'd not heard anything from the forums for a while and saw all this activity regarding my scanner.

Firstly, very happy to see another person giving my design a go, and looks like you've got it built very nicely.
GenioDiabolico wrote:
22 Aug 2018, 10:11
I have built this design. I've scanned one paperback and one hardback so far to get the feel for it. It works after a fashion, but I'm still trying to solve the issues of physical drift of the book as I turn the pages.
In my original version of the scanner I used that same sticky shelf liner I can see in your pics. It sort of works but not the best as it drifts and the book drifts too. Eventually I found a thin (1/8" thick) rubber floor mat at a local hardware store (see details here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3401#p20514) and just covered my entire table with it. My various monitor stand and other clamps attached to my table (including the TIFLIC Manfroto Clamp) hold it in place so the drift of the mat was solved. See the pic below and other pics earlier in the thread.
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You don't need to cover the whole table but just one end is sufficient (as per the red overlays in the pics) to handle the scanner in different positions.
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DSC03528-back mount - 25% - mat overlay.jpg
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DSC03524-light extension - 25% - mat overlay.jpg
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As for the book drift, as you can see in my video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MU6H7dEzTMY) of the scanner in operation at a pretty good clip (22-25 pages a min, with hardback or paperbacks), its more a matter of developing a feel to hold the book in place with a gentle but firm touch. I find it's not really a problem when it moves (usually a slow drift to the left as it's pushed by the left edge of the platen when you bring it down and push it into the gutter).

As long as you're not zoomed in fully, then a little drift is ok as long as the full page is still in the image because ScanTailor will find the page content.

I find I need to lift the book back into view every 25-35 pages, and it's usually just 10-20 seconds to get it back into position as long as you're able to easily see the screen of your camera so you can check when it's back in place.

Paperbacks are the hardest to keep in place as you reach the last 15% of the book as the back cover really wants to snap the book closed when you lift the platen. I find the best approach there is to make sure when you tilt the platen up, make sure the right edge "digs" into the rubber mat a bit so it doesn't move, so then even if you have to totally lift the book off to turn the page, you can put it back in the right place quite easily because the left edge of the platen, which will register the book's gutter into position, is still in the right place (mostly :) ).
GenioDiabolico wrote:
22 Aug 2018, 10:11
As I tweak the details, I will post a big blog wrapup and link it from here. I have all the other OSes from Mohib, so I needed OS X and Android equivalents, bash scripts and such. Ultimately I will document everything.
Looking forward to your updates.

Sorry you're not using Windows and iPhone, but perhaps you can use Parallels on the Apple to run the software.

As for the camera software, as long as the software has the key features I mention in the documentation (repeated below for reference), almost any camera software is ok.

Required camera software features:
a. High resolution files (hi-quality -- i.e. low compression -- JPG is sufficient) because without this option, the image quality will be poor for OCR.

b. Full manual controls
• white balance,
• shutter speed,
• focus lock (i.e. not when the shutter is to be triggered, but a permanent focus lock at same point for all pictures), and, optionally, manual focus,
• ISO setting. Manual ISO setting is important and should be set low (50) to reduce grain and keep image quality up.

c. Efficient and fast to change the above manual controls (i.e. not a lot of opening and shutting down panels).

d. Less than 2 second wait time between shots.

e. Step zoom in increments (1.1x, 1.2x, etc.), not continuous zoom (for easy resetting the zoom to a consistent value if needed).

f. Click sound when shutter is tripped.

g. Works with Bluetooth triggers.
Apparently not all iPhone camera software works with Bluetooth triggers and all software that does, does not work with all Bluetooth trigers. In general, it seems, the key to ensuring Bluetooth triggers work, is to see if the volume controls can be used as a shutter release (as on the default iPhone camera app) because Bluetooth triggers "press" the volume control. If you choose other camera software, double check it works with the Bluetooth trigger you purchase.

h. On screen grid (useful but not necessary).

i. Software should keep its settings between activations (useful but not necessary).
Last edited by Mohib on 20 Sep 2018, 01:13, edited 5 times in total.

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Mohib
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Re: Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Post by Mohib » 20 Sep 2018, 00:27

GenioDiabolico wrote:
31 Aug 2018, 07:52
dpc was on the money. I got my Siconi mat and then scanned a book. It held MUCH better than my previous mat. By holding it in place reliably it meant that I scanned faster and that the output was more consistent and thus had better results out of Scan Tailor and OCR. Thanks for the suggestion.
This sounds interesting. I remember Daniel mentioning these way back when I first posted my original design 4 years ago but never got around to testing them. These look a little thick so I'm wondering if you have several Siconi mats under the book so it stays level and doesn't rock. Or perhaps that's not an issue.
GenioDiabolico wrote:
31 Aug 2018, 07:52
One of the things I did was lower the camera so that I could get more book in frame without having to digital zoom. Looking at Mohib's original video I think I went overboard. My camera is now low enough that I need to be careful not to hit it with the platen. I think I am going to raise it a bit and see how that works for the next experiment.
One of the great things about this design is that's easy to experiment with various configurations. You're able to get quite a bit of adjustment with the macro focus bar, moving it to one end and the camera to one end also. You can also try a longer (8" or 12" macro bar instead of 6"). You'll see in the video it's in various places, specifically because I use it to move the camera to avoid digital zoom.

If you built the design per my dimensions you should be able to use the 6" macro bar at any position without the platen hitting it, but you may need some digital zoom. Point and shoot cameras that project a long lens may not work at the lowest position on the macro focusing bar.

Another option is to do this, and deliberately keystone the image. You lose some quality when image processing to de-keystone, but you can go closer to the book and reduce/eliminate digital zoom.
.
DSC03615 - acute angle - control - 25%.jpg
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I was experimenting with some well rated, but moderate priced, clip-on 2x lenses but they don't work too well. Unless you get it exactly right, the quality at the edge is quite low and doesn't OCR too well. So about 1/3 of the field of view is wasted so you end up having to move the camera further away and defeat the purpose of them.

One thing I noticed in your pics, it seemed like you had the main scanner post on the same side of the table as you're standing. If that's so, don't you find that it comes in the way with your hands and arms when lifting the platen? Or do you have one hand on each side of the post?
Last edited by Mohib on 20 Sep 2018, 01:16, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: Original ~600pg/hr, very portable scanner now achieving ~900pg-1100pg/hr

Post by Mohib » 20 Sep 2018, 01:04

I'll try and find a Greek book from my library and do a test, but a lot of the problems you say you are having I don't find I have at all.

As I mentioned 4 years ago when I first posted the design, I developed this scanner primarily for OCR (using Abbyy Fine Reader) after processing the images through Scan Tailor. As you can see from the detailed tests I've posted in this thread (with just an old iPhone 4s) and also in my video, I'm getting close to 100% OCR accuracy. No blurred images, no shaken images, no out of focus images, and that's going at full speed of 25 pages a minute (1500 pages an hour). Perhaps its just a matter of practice, as I will admit you need to scan 2-3 books to get the hang of the scanner as it's not simply "mechanical" but requires learning a little skill to using it effectively.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
1 you need more source of lights in different directions and you have only one, and even you have more you need and from your side so you have difussion of the light due the plexi glass that you cant manage. that will have some letters under the plexi-glass more blur.take same pictures with and without plexiglass.
I've scanned dozens of books (well over 5,000 pages) and never had any of these problems. If you're scanning for OCR and processing via Scan Tailor lighting is not an issue at all. Any reasonable lighting is sufficient.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
2 if not using much tape or something that will keep on the book stable it will move some pages and you will need to recapture. i see that you face that with a Siconi mat .if you move a little bit the plexi glass whine camera capture or focus maybe you will get a blurred photo.
Yes the book can move, but I've never had it move while taking the image. It only drifts as you turn the pages. I've never had a blurred image from the book moving while taking the image. Theoretically all kinds of things are possible (moving the plexiglass, moving the book, table wobbling, etc.) but in practice nothing happens if one is just marginally careful.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
3 now a systemic issue in mohib scanner. lets say that you take a glass of mirror and put it between plexi glass and camera. if you see from the screen in the middle the lens of the camera that means you have 90 ankle .like you close one eye and watch you eye in a mirror it means you are perfectly opposite .that change in every capture due to the ankle of the movin blexi glass. so you need to fix that .i used abbyy finereader 12 straighten text line command .that mean 6 more steps in my method or 40 more minutes for a 600 pages book. the trick with the mirror helps me reduce the procession time of the images.
I'm sorry I don't understand what you're explaining here but there's no need whatsoever to be so precise with taking the images if you're processing the image with Scan Tailor.

If you're not planning to process the images with Scan Tailor, before OCR, I would not recommend using my scanner design.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
(From your first point): is one issue that may change the focus spot of your smartphone and you will need recapture pages.

4 take a meter and check every 50 pages the distance .keep the distacne stable move camera .if the move is not vertically you need to focus again in the middle of the page. use scan talior experimental to scale the cropped images them in the same level.

5 you need with the same distance and ankles of light to capture a whole book. that means that if you want same results you cant because you will have to recapture missed or blurred pages with different camera-glass distance.
I've done extensive focus tests with books upto 6" thick and posted the results here. Most important with all book scanner is manual focus and/or focus lock. Most point and shoot cameras and phone cameras have very good depth of field and so you can easily scan 50 pages (i.e. turn 50 page leaves), so about half of the 100 sheets of paper in a 200 page book, without needing to refocus and no loss of OCR quality. Refocusing (depending on your camera or camera software) is about a 20-30 second process.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
6 maybe you will have compatibility issues with the bluetooth trigger every 100 pages. i am not sure ,i haven't use it yet but try a selfistick jack .
Using the Bluetooth trigger I mention in the documentation, I've had no real problems. Once in a while I might need to reconnect the phone and trigger but this happens once or twice every 2-3 books. I have no other Bluetooth hardware anywhere near me, so perhaps that helps avoid conflicts.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
All the issues i referred is because i read the photo and not ocr because i scan greek books. ocr here is not acceptable to read. so i tried to optimize the quality of the images. a good way to check quality is with abbyfinerear command detect the optimal resolution. more than 300 dpi is the same ocr. more than 500 dpi looks the same in the human eye .take a bunch of photos in any distance to see which one is better. and take 3 photos before you start capture a book to see if you are satisfied with the result.
As I said I'll try and find a Greek book from a library and run some tests.
Konos93a wrote:
04 Sep 2018, 19:43
personally when i scanned a 250 pages book i had to recaptured 30 pages and put their images in the right place in the folders.i also had a headacke because i had 2 lights in front of my eyes for 40 minutes. anyway i remember spend 4 hours in a book that need less than 1 with a 2-camera classic diybookscanner to get digitalized.
Again I've not had any problems with lights, and generally never use 1, let alone 2 lights, when scanning as I process all images through Scan Tailor. I regularly scan 250 page hard books in about 15-20 mins (start to finish, including covers, flipping the book around, etc.) with no bad images.

My feeling is that, like cars, there is a very strong personal component to what scanner design a person may find suitable for them. I found most of the designs on these forums -- though very brilliant in many cases -- not fitting my temperament or construction skills and resources (tools, workshop, etc.) , and so I developed the TIFLIC scanner. It meets all my original design criteria and works very, very well for me (as can be seen in the videos) both from a simple construction point of view and from a results point of view (speed, quality, portability, flexibility, etc.). Just as other designs didn't suit me, perhaps the TIFLIC scanner just doesn't suit you and other designs will work better for you.

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